Sunday, September 14, 2008
New Stage Swears In
Which will be me pretty soon as well. I'll be home Oct1-8, so all those in Seattle, beware.
Uploaded some pictures from Kelsey's visit to Niger. Should probably upload some more, but the album is here, if you want to take a look. Added them to previous posts as well to give some reference and they are the slideshow in the side bar.
Just a quick update for now, will try to think of something more intelligent and interesting to add later.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
End of Vacation, Beggining of a Beautiful Friendship, and Continuing Thoughts of "Work"
When last we left our intrepid voyagers they were in Cape Coast trying to escape the over-turned bush taxi which was quickly sinking into crocodile infested waters… at least that’s pretty close to my memory of most bush taxi rides. So from that miraculous escape we moved on to Takoradi (non-descript factory and market town) and past, to a string of little villages which have become somewhat of a resort destination: Dixcove, Busua, and a couple of other little places, but it was the beach in Busua where we spent most of our time.Initially, we were going to head to a different little town with a resort that came highly recommended: the Green Turtle Lodge, an ‘eco-friendly’ place with close ties to the local culture. Sounds great right? Too bad that as we get to within 10km (taxi stop in Busua), we see a sign saying it’s full. A little disheartening after an entire day of travel, but we decide to stay the night in Busua and try again the next morning.
First night there we stayed at our normal type of place for this trip: small, pretty cheap, and decidedly somewhere people on a Peace Corps budget could get by. But since our experience with the bed-bug infested room in Porto Novo I think the budget travelling had started to wear on Kelsey. After that night of so-so accommodation we were going to hit the Green Turtle, but
decided it was a better idea to call ahead instead of just going out blind, so we went down the road a little further and found the enormous ‘white elephant behind the wall’ Busua Resort. Definitely a step above the rest of the places on the stretch of beach it had 10 foot high walls, security… and AIR CONDITIONING everywhere. Wow. Place for big spenders. Call the Green Turtle from their phone and it’s full. It’s full until well after we want to leave the area so what to do? Why not have a couple of days of luxury? And so we got a room at Busua Resort and IT WAS AMAZING. By US standards it wasn’t very expensive at all, but not some place people from the town could ever stay (or with the security ever be allowed to visit, which isn’t so bad when it’s the rasta beach bums hawking merchandise who are kept away). I was kinda put off at first with staying in a place so removed from local life, but I did enjoy it. Private beach, pools, bars, good food. It was definitely the highlight of my trip, especially I would say…Kelsey, cause I know you’ll read this: I love you and am very happy you said yes, but the planning is really up to you, my one request is an open bar and maybe a live band (budget allowing).
As far as the rest of the trip is concerned, after Busua it was more like transit back to Niamey. We stayed a night in Kumasi, which is a city I actually rather liked. It was far smaller than Accra, but had just as much good stuff and restaurants. Then it was on to Ouaga on an overnight, 20 hour, bus ride (again drum corps preparing me for Africa). Again not a bad place, Ouaga has movie theaters, a bowling alley, and pool tables in some bars. Think I'll have to come back, maybe for the Panafrican Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou (Festival panafricain du cinéma et de la télévision de Ouagadougou or FESPACO), perhaps the best African Film festival.Then it was on to Niamey and Kelsey's flight home. At least we'll be getting back together for christmas in Paris.
I must say that having traveled around Africa outside of Niger for the first time I can really appreciate that Niger is not the standard to measure Africa by. In many ways West African
countries are very similar, especially in the way people act, but Niger is definately a couple steps behind in terms of development. Kelsey was shocked at the trash that littered Niamey's streets, I was used to it, and so when we saw other cities I really expected the same, but most aren't littered up, or at least it isn't as bad. Really comes down to 'can we pay people to pick up trash' because people would willing do it if it means steady pay. 'Can we setup a trash collection infastructure?' These are things Niger answers no to. Maybe this is right as money is needed for other things like health and education, but then you think, why do the mayors in Niamey need big old SUVs to drive around in? Couldn't that money be better spent? It's just Niger spreading it's thin resources, other countries can do the same, but have more to spread around.It is nice to be back though. Just crossing the border from Burkina and hearing Zarma again made me feel at home. The thing I like best about living here and the Peace Corps approch is that I feel very much a part of the community most of the time. Knowing the local language is extremely useful and I had no access to that in southern Benin or Ghana, though I did run into a couple of Zarmaphones at times in unexpected places.
So now that I'm back... well it's back to work, or the thought of it.
1) Student government is now on the table again, but not in my original conception, it'll be more keyed to Gaya and I'm not going to worry about the big, money eating conference I had originally wanted to do in Niamey.2) MJC library is my next stop today. Thanks to the donations of books from the Dihns, my parents and grandparents, and an NGO, Darrius Book Aid, we're ready to start catologing and shelving the many english language books we've collected. A big Fonda Goy to you all!!
3) Radio work. Just did a show yesterday on the amazing Moringa (Windi Bundu in Zarma). A great way to reduce malnutrion around here. I eat it with everything and so should you!!
4) This school year I'm going to try and be more involved with the english classes by going in each month to read to and chat with the students in a way of helping them learn english from a native speaker and maybe increasing their interest in learning the language and maybe school in general. Reminder to myself to do a post on the differences in US/Niger teaching styles.
5) English text books for my middle schools. This is a hard one.... I need YOUR help to get it done. I'll be plugging it when I get back to the states and see my friends, since most of them don't read this blog, but I still have $5994 to raise before Peace Corps will release the money to me. It would be great to have it by the start of the school year, but that's coming up way too quickly, so by the New Year is my real goal. If you have any ideas about groups I can approach to ask for donations please let me know. They're all tax deductable and on-line easy to do. Check it out, thanks!
6) Live and learn here. Can't say enough about how much of a job it can feel like just to live here. Ask Kelsey about how long it takes me to move from one side of the town to the other with all the people I have to greet, but I do enjoy it and think it's opening my mind a lot.
Oh and not to make this post any longer, but.... Did any of you catch the other day that McCain said "one thing is to expand opportunities for national service - the Peace Corps and AmeriCorps, neighborhood and community organizations. You see, I think after 9/11 we had a golden opportunity to call all Americans to serve the country - not just to tell them to take a trip and go shopping. And I think they would have responded. I think they will still respond."? Don't want to turn this into a political blog and I by all means don't support him in place of another un-named candidate (who, by the way, also supports expanded PC), but if a republican can say that, could the next president, whoever he is, please get us more funding and support?!?! I mean our budget just got cut 7% this year alone and that makes it all that much harder to do our work and live here.Wow, too much to say. Congrats if you made it all this way through, especially without pictures (bad connection here, but hope to add them next time i'm through Niamey). Nice to be back. Great to be engaged and now y'all know the latest in my life.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Ghana... a wonderland of wonderous wonders
It's amazing how different countries in West Africa can be. Since I saw skittles in a store in Cotonou I knew we weren't in Niger anymore. Now in Ghana there are things non-existant in Niger, like nice dogs!
Ok, I'll let Kesley explain what we've been up to
All the best, until my next update.
Monday, July 21, 2008
The quietest little capital city in the world
Waving lines of flashback.... ala Wayne's World....
Biddilyloo biddilyloo biddilyloo
Left Gaya last Tuesday. Typical of any African traveling, this one started off like a bush taxi, coughing and sputtering and we weren't sure it would get moving.... We had bought tickets from Gaya to Dasa, Benin on a bus line, Air. Show up at 7 like they said. No bus at 730, no bus at 830. Finally a bus pulls up at 9 or so. It's full. They say, no problem, there's one behind it. Ok, Fine. Turns out the next bus is more than an hour behind this one.... and it's full also. Before it arrives we're told to head to the border and after the bus passes there people may get off and we can find seats, so we motorcycle taxi it to the border (Kelsey's first one ever actually) and get through just as the bus is pulling up. And.... no empty seats. It's this bus or nothing for the day so we talk our way on and sit in the aisle.... for FOUR hours. A bush taxi would have been better. Never has my back been so sore. But we make it to....
Dassa-Zoumé
So after this intial shock of green-ness, and our pause to adjust (more for me as Kelsey is still somewhat fresh from the green NW), we pressed on to....
Abomey
Seat of the Dahomey Kingdom for a long time (since I only speak a little French I didn't exactly get all the info from our French language tour). We visited the palace of the last two kings, they're attached. It was interesting as they were a pretty bloody lot who traded in slaves. Carved and painted pictures on the palace walls depict decapitations and other bodily harm casued to enemies and there is one of the thrones set on the skulls of four poor fellows from and opposing group. One cool thing is they used women heavily in their army, which the europeans referred to as their Amazons. There's a pride in that and a lot of places are Benin with Amazon in the name. This was all in passing to....

Cotonou
Which isn't all that cool. Big and busy. Scared me, but not really because of it's size, but because of the difference in the power of the economy versus what one sees in Niger. It's sad to see my little slice of Africa in the grander scheme of things. We really are a poor country, even here. Cotonou is happening economically, with new builings, lots of businesses, etc. Clean streets even (for the most part), which means someone is being paid to pick up trash... a luxury from where I'm from. Didn't spend much time here, but instead went to...
Porto Novo
So from here it's on to Ghana after a stop tomorrow in the voodoo capital of Benin, Ouida. Will try to keep you all posted as we go.Oh, before I go, don't forget how you can help out a poor English starved Nigerien child in Gaya for only $10. (I'm trying not to be overly pushy here, but I'm realizing that seven grand is a lot to come up with, so PLEASE donate and/or pass this along to others I may or may not know who are more suceptible to a casual mention of education needs in the third world... Thanks!)
Until later and from an English speaking country (hurray!)
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Benin, Cotonou, and Beyond
Ok enough of trying to get money from ya'll... Oh and I'll try to explain the whole PC Partnership thing better in a future post; feeling internet cafe time constrictions here: 9 minutes and counting till shutdown!
So Kelsey is visiting, has been here for over two weeks actually, and we are currently in Cotonou after seeing 1. Dirty Niamey, 2. Giraffes, 3. Gaya, and 4. some awesome hills. Pictures forthcoming with more internet time; but not tonight. So in the sake of such time crunch I'll let her tell ya'll all about it from some snippets which went out to her family. Maybe it'll help describe this place more since I'm too accustomed to its auirks and have settled into it. Enjoy!
From July 1
"Hey!
From July 8:
"Hey!
i decided that i am not going to capitolize anything since this is one
of those damn european keyboards where everything is out of order.
the trip is tons better. we went to goethéye, north of niamey for a
fish bake for a couple days. it was awesome to get out of the city
for a while as I was definitely tired of it. the culture shock has
worn off though and i am just trying to accept it for what it is now.
I got some fabric at the grand marché and had two bags made and a
dress. I am very excited as it was very cheap and they look good. I
love the way the women dress here....so colorful!
we also took a bush taxi out to Kore to see some wild giraffes that
are protected. They have about 150 there but we only got to see about
6, but three were babies. Even babies are huge! it was cool to see
them out in the wild and not in a zoo. We had to walk with a guide 7
km to see them in the hot sun....that part was not so much fun but
still worth it. the bush taxi ride was crazy. They crammed more
people into that van than i would have ever thought possible; and kept
trying to stuff more in. I had a womans armpit on me, and when her
baby started to cry, she pulled out her boob in my face and started
feeding. The boob and baby were practically in my lap! I have seen
more boobs here in one week than i have ever seen in my life!
I am now in Gaya; where Jeremy is stationed. Everyone here is very
friendly, and while it is still dirty, it is much prettier here thanks
to more trees and vegetation. The town is about 30,000 so it is still
a fair size. Everyone here wants to say hi and I am getting many good
opportunities to practice my french, which is good but i am still shy
with my lack of enough vocabulary. I can understand
about 70% of what people say, which i think is good considering that
african french sounds different than France french. Mostly I have to
rely on Jeremy though since most people speak Zarma more than french.
I hate that.... I have to stand and smile stupidly since I have no
idea what is being said and they are often teasing him about me.
It has been raining since it is rainy season, but usually in the
mornings. It makes it humid but at least it is a little cooler than
usual."
So.... as you can see it takes a little bit of time to come to love this place like I do, well at least get comfortable with it. Will post about the trip soon.... 2 minutes till this thing explodes, time to publish!
Sunday, June 15, 2008
MST - Half-way
Pictures are of a spider I saw wrapping up a fly on my porch that I had fun Photoshop-ing and a butterfly in my garden.
Let's see... any good entries from my journal to share....June 4th-
'Wow, June has arrived. Thought that in Zarma first. Funny how my thinking is becoming more and more mixed language. When I studied abroad in France, I remember dreaming in French. I wonder what it's like to be really bi/tri-lingual. Certainly want to learn as many languages as I can.
Lega was just at the door. He said he'd come by around 6:30PM, but it's fully 10pm now. Wasn't too happy with someone coming by so late, but gave him his pictures of the wedding and he loved them. Hope they'll help him get his wife back; she's moved back to her parents' house because she "isn't liking being married." Well, there wasn't much more than a 24hour period from meeting to marrying, maybe not the greatest idea? Me and Kelsey have been together for 5 YEARS. Think that would be a better basis, no?
Good night tonight. Have Kilshi (Nigerian style jerky which is absolutely delicious and I want to bring it back to the states with me), Pasta Side, Jazz on my MP3, reading lamp set up on the porch table, and '5 Semaines en Ballon,' my first attempt to read a novel in French (I didn't make it through the kid's book I have from our first training, it didn't get my attention at all).
Wish I had something more interesting to write about. 24 days till I see Kesley!!'
June 8'Sunday, lazy Sunday. Had Issa's Baptime this morning. Went out to find his place and at first missed it completely and took an impromptu bike tour of that part of Gaya, an area I hadn't actually been to much.
Afterwards, 8am or so, I came back here, did my workout and watering. Eric and his girl, Jill, showed up; her out this way visiting. They went down to Malanville. I was gonna go down there with, but would rather ride my bike down this afternoon when it cools off a little. Nice wind today. I've really taken to bike riding and starting to get a little better at the bike maintanance as well.
Still reading 5 Semaines, and making good progress, not understanding all of the french, but enough to understand the story. Jules Verne's characters are so cookie cutter and stale stereo-types (though, maybe they were new and excited back in the day).
Haven't had rain since I was last in Niamey (a week or so). The rain is getting towards being late. It's kinda scary to think about what might happen if they don't come soon. Would make Ethiopa's latest drought and hungry look small in comparison I think. Given that, there, they have year-round crop production and one season was lost, though here, our eggs are all in the same once-a-year rain basket. People have already planted and I am concerned about those sproutlings dying off in the heat. Though people don't seem too concerned yet. Think it just might be a bit more time though.
Irikoy ma kande hari hanno - My God bring us good rain'
And really though, the rains have still not arrived. We had rain here in Niamey two nights ago, but none in Gaya for the two weeks I was there. The millet they planted three weeks ago when we had a couple of days of rain were hanging in there. A tough crop millet. People are still holding off on planting beans and peanuts. There's no reason to panic yet, but it is a little disconcerting. That combined with the recent rise in many food staples could cause major problems here. Peace Corps passed out a pretty depressing report entitled 'Praying for the best, planning for the worst' discussing how, with the rise in food prices, we may start to see a lot more hunger here and how we, as PCVs, can deal with that. Not something I want to see happen.About MY field: my friend, Ousmanne, gave me a section of his large field where I'm planning on planting peanuts and beans. Spent a couple hours one day clearing it out; hacking at the bushes who had sprouted up with a machette, then burning the piles. Was waiting for rains to head out to till the soil and plant. Didn't recieve any rain while I was in Gaya, and seeing as I'm not coming back for two weeks I bought seeds and left them in Gaya for Ousmanne to plant when it rains. I really want to do the work myself, but he says we shouldn't wait.
Long post, hope everyone back in the States is doing well. Pulling for Ray Allen to get that ring, he deserves it and it's sad to see Seattle lose the Sonics. But we're getting a MLS team I'm told so that's awesome. I want to join their marching/pep-band, that, or become a soccer hooligan.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Pangea 2008
Check out the link to my Pangea photo album on PicasaOr
Facebook (with more pics of friends)
Finished “The Corner,” the book following people living in inner-city
Jobs. Real rehab programs (which need to include jobs). Improved schooling with support and real post K-12 opportunities, like jobs and continued education. These are the things that we need to be addressing. Why aren’t these things that any of the new presidential candidates talk about? Why isn’t there a national discussion on how to revitalize our urban centers from their post-industrial distress?
I always thought we should employ people from these urban centers to help rebuild and refurbish them, kind of like a New Deal jobs corps.
Though I guess the reality of the situation is that in a post-industrial America is that jobs have divided themselves into two categories: high paid jobs requiring high education and service sector jobs, tending to be low pay and with a low educational demand. To increase the ability of the service sector workers to make a decent living we need to increase wages and provide health care to protect everyone from the knockdown punch of catastrophic illness or injury, or in the case of my last book, drug addiction.
Plenty of time to ponder all this in much more depth, but for now I’d like to have another coffee, a main reason I’m rambling on with this issue.
This week is just about up. It’s been fun to hang in the NY, to eat good food and see my Annasara friends. Today I’m back off toward
JK